Stay safe, comfortable—and within your budget—by picking the perfect surface to surround your swimming pool.

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For refreshing summer fun, nothing beats a backyard swimming pool. While the water is the main focus, it’s the decking around it that determines how well the pool fits into the landscape—and how safe it is for swimmers. Successful pool decking should provide a secure walking area between pool ladders, diving boards, and slides, as well as a place for lounging. If you’re considering adding decking around your pool—or rehabbing the deck that’s already there—keep reading to learn what to look for, plus how-to tips on design and installation.

Material Matters

Bare feet are the norm on pool decking so it’s vital that the material you choose won’t become slippery when wet or absorb excess heat. Swimmers should be able to walk safely—even when the surface is sopping wet—without scorching their soles. Ideally, the surface should feel pleasant beneath the feet, so keep comfort as well as safety in mind when choosing pool decking material from the following options:

Poured Concrete

Poured concrete has been the material of choice for pool decking for decades because it’s durable and water-resistant. When finished with a brushed surface, poured concrete allows swimmers to walk barefooted without the risk of slipping.

  • Pros: Poured concrete can be formed and poured in virtually any shape you like; curves and geometric patterns are doable. This durable surface is also fairly affordable, costing $5 to $6 per square foot for professionally installed concrete, or about $2 to $3 per square foot for just the materials if you plan to do it yourself.
  • Cons: Concrete is really only do-it-yourself-friendly if the pour is small—six foot by six foot or less—and you have some experience working with the material. Larger slabs should be left to the pros because concrete can begin to set within minutes on a hot, dry day. If you don’t know how to smooth it quickly, you could end up having to break it out and start over.

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Pre-cast Cement Pavers

Pre-cast cement pavers, a good alternative to poured concrete, can be purchased in a variety of geometrical shapes, including squares, rectangles, and octagons.

  • Pros: Homeowners can choose from a handful of gray and earthen tones, and installing cement pavers is a DIY-friendly project. The pavers are non-slip and affordable, running $2 to $4 per square foot. Add another $2 to $3 per square foot if you want professional installation.
  • Cons: If they’re not installed correctly over an excavated bed of sand or gravel, cement pavers can sink, creating an uneven decking surface.

Brick

Brick is another DIY-friendly option, which installs in much the same way as cement pavers—over a bed of sand to keep the material from moving. Brick is slightly more expensive, ranging from $.50 to $5 per brick, depending on the type, and professional installation will set you back another $2 to 5 per square foot. Brick lends the landscape a classic look, making it a good choice for historic homes.

  • Pros: Brick is durable and homeowners can opt for a variety of colors and installation patterns. Choose paver bricks (the ones without holes) for decking.
  • Cons: Installation is time-consuming, because bricks are small and each one must be set individually. Also, dark bricks are likely to absorb heat and can be quite hot underfoot.

Wood

Wood is a smooth choice that feels wonderful underfoot, but not all types are suitable for pool decking. You’ll need a good exterior wood, such as redwood, teak, cedar, or ipe (an exotic hardwood), to repel water and insect damage. Wood decking requires the construction of a floor joist system on which to install the decking boards. If you’re experienced in basic construction principles and hope to DIY, the materials to install wood pool decking will run $3.50 to $5 per square foot, depending on wood species. Pro installation will add another $5 to $10 per square ft.

  • Pros: Wood decking is a great way to update an existing concrete or brick patio because it can be constructed right on top. It’s also the material of choice for building stairs and decks around above-ground pools.
  • Cons: Wood is a product of nature, and even the most weather-resistant types require an annual application of a sealant for protection. For long-term use, wood decking may require refinishing every three to four years, which includes sanding down the surface and applying a sealant.
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Stone Tile

Stone tile, an upscale material available in a variety of natural choices, such as travertine, limestone, and sandstone, lends the landscape a natural look. Only unglazed stone tile should be used in a pool setting—glazed tile can be slippery when wet—and for comfort underfoot choose light shades that won’t absorb too much heat.

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  • Pros: For sheer good looks, it’s hard to beat stone tile, which offers a graceful surface for lounging and entertaining. It also feels soft and smooth to walk on.
  • Cons: Considered a premium pool decking material, you’ll pay between $5 and $15 per square foot for materials alone. Professional installation can add another $3 to $18 per square foot, as some contractors may suggest pouring a concrete slab and installing the stone tile on top.

Surface Coatings

Surface coatings contain epoxy, or a combination of polymer resins, sand, and cement, which allows them to bond tightly to concrete surfaces and cover aging concrete pool decking. They provide a non-slip surface that resists water and pool chemicals, as well as harsh UV rays, so it won’t turn scorching in the summer sun. A variety of spray-on and roll-on products are available in both clear and opaque colors to update, seal, and add texture to the surface of the concrete.

  • Pros: These coating products are great for treating existing pool decks that are too slippery or in need of a facelift. They’re waterproof, low maintenance, and DIY-friendly, running $1.50 to $2 per square foot for materials; pro installation will add an additional $2 to $4 per square foot.
  • Cons: Coating treatments are a surface fix but they won’t fix deeper problems, such as cracking or settling of the concrete.

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Installation and Design Details

Whether you’re installing the pool decking yourself or having a professional do the work, keep the following tips in mind.

  • Call before you dig. Even if you’re only excavating only a few inches, call DigSafe (811), a free national service that will notify the utility companies in your area so they can make sure their buried lines won’t pose a problem.
  • Obtain the proper permit from your local building authority. Many communities have rules that restrict installing solid surface, such as concrete, in an easement or over a utility line. It pays to check before you start rather than have to remove a portion of the decking.
  • Consider the cost of curves. The cost of professional installation for curved decking will be higher than it is for square and rectangular designs.
  • Factor in a slope. Poured concrete, tile, brick, and paver pool decking needs a slight slope in order for water to drain. (With wood decking, water drains away between the boards so the slope is unnecessary.) The slope should be one-quarter inch per lineal foot and should slope away from the pool to keep dirty water, leaves, and debris from washing back into the pool.
  • Add a channel if necessary. If you have extensive pool decking that runs from your home all the way to the poolside, consider installing a channel drain somewhere between the two points to collect water and allow it to drain away to the side of the deck or a storm rain.
  • Don’t forget the foundation. Great pool decking starts with a sound substrate. Poured concrete, pavers, and bricks all require excavation and a base of sand or gravel. Tile can be installed over a similar substrate or may require a concrete slab as a substrate (check the tile manufacturer’s specs). Wood decking requires a floor joist foundation.

Enjoying your deck on a beautiful summer day is the perfect way to entertain guests outside or just unwind and relax. And while it’s important to have a deck that’s aesthetically pleasing to you, the most vital part about your deck is making sure it’s structurally sound. That includes knowing the difference between a joist and a beam and what purpose they serve to your deck and its functionality and safety.

What Is a Joist?

Joists are the repeated structural members that are used to build a deck frame. The minimum size joist to be used in deck construction depends on the number of footings and beams that will be installed.

What Is a Beam?

A beam is the main load-bearing element for the structural soundness of your deck’s roof. It’s not only responsible for supporting the weight of the joists, but other building elements, as well.

Deck Joist Spacing

A lot of questions revolve around joists when it comes to building a deck. What is the proper placement? How far apart are floor joists placed? How do I keep them even?

In general terms, joists spaced 16 inches on center can span 1.5 times in feet their depth in inches. A 2x8 up to 12 feet; 2x10 to 15 feet and 2x12 to 18 feet. The larger the deck, the larger the joists.

In typical deck construction, with a ledger on one side of the joist and beam on the other, the size of the joists is driven by the size of the deck and based on the general maximum spans mentioned above. For best results, refer to our wood and composite deck joist span table.

Joist Spacing (o.c.) 12'16'24'
Species Size Allowable Span
Southern Pine 2x6 9'-11'9'-0' 7'-7'
2x8 13'-1' 11'-10' 9'-8'
2x10 16'-2' 14'-0'11'-5'
2x1218'-0' 16'-6'13'-6'

Douglas Fir-Larch,

Hem-Fir,

Spruce-Pine-Fir

2x69'-8' 8'-4'6'-10'
2x8 12'-8' 11'-1'9'-1'
2x10 15'-8' 13'-7'11'-1'
2x12 18'-0' 15'-9'12'-10'

Redwood,

Western Cedars,

Poderosa Pine, Red Pine

2x68'-10' 8'-0'6'-10'
2x8 11'-8' 10'-7'8'-8'
2x1014'-11' 13'-0' 10'-7'
2x12 17'-5' 15'-1'12'-4'

For conventional guardrail post installation bolted to the side of the framing, larger framing will provide more strength in the rails. For upper-level decks, 2x10 is recommended as the minimum size to use for strong guard post connections. 2x6 joists should only be used on ground-level decks that do not require, and will not provide for, any guards. Similar to guards, if stairs are to be hung from the side of an upper-level deck, 2x10 as a minimum is recommended, as it will exceed the depth of the first step.

Joist hangers are used to attach the ends of joists to the face of a beam or a ledger board. If you identify a crown in the board, you should always install it upwards. The crown will eventually settle after completing construction and should stiffen in the proper position after drying.

The layout term for joists is “On Center,” which is the center-to-center measurement from one joist to the next. Most decks use 16' on center spacing for joists. Most decking is not strong enough to support longer spans than 16'. Some builders reduce joist spacing to 12' on center to strengthen the deck frame or to increase maximum allowable joist spans.

Joist Spacing for Composite Decking

Before building a composite deck, always read the installation instructions from the manufacturer, paying special attention to the required joist spacing for composite decking. Most composite decking materials, like Trex composite decking, require minimum joist spacing for composite decking at 16' on center spacing for straight decking and 12' on center joist spacing for 45-degree angle diagonal decking.

Also, many composite decking materials require 12' or even 10' on center stair stringers spacing to support composite stair treads. If you are installing composite decking over an existing frame, you may need to install new intermediate joists or stair stringers to meet the installation requirements.

Since most composite products aren’t as inflexible as their wood counterparts, they don’t hide imperfections in the framing quite as well. This can sometimes cause an uneven surface. That’s why stretching a string across the joist spacing for composite deck boards can help detect spots that may be higher than others. These spots can be addressed with a power hand planer to give you a nicer, smoother surface for the deck of your dreams.


Using a scrap piece of wood as a guide to locate the first joist in the situation of an angled corner.

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Use a sharpie or construction pencil to mark your joists.

Marking joist locations at 16' on center spacing on the header with a marker.


Installing a joist over a beam. Make sure the top of the joist is flush with the header. Toe nailing will fail in 75+ mile per hour winds. Use hurricane clips in high wind areas.


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Use a chisel to notch beams to create a level frame.

Notching a joist over a beam. This joist was 1/4' higher than all the others. You can notch out a section of the joist or add shims to a narrow joist to even out the top of the deck frame.


Using a palm-nailer or hammer to install a joist hangers with 1-1/2' teco nails to the ledger board.

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Measuring the 2x10 pressure treated joist length to prepare for cutting. Use a speed square to square off your joists.


Installing 2x10 pressure treated joists at 16' on center. Be sure to install the joists crown side up.


Installing a Simpson Strong Tie H2.5Z Hurricane Tie for every joist to beam connection.